Why I Fell in Love With a Country I Knew Absolutely Nothing About
Would I do things differently? Absolutely.
And hopefully, by sharing my experience, you’ll avoid some of the mistakes I made and enjoy even more of the magic that Sri Lanka has to offer.
How I Ended Up Travelling Around Sri Lanka
A couple of years ago, I travelled to Sri Lanka with a very dear friend. Initially, I did what many people do. I booked a two-week all-inclusive holiday. Then I started researching. The more I read, the more I realised that spending two weeks in the same hotel would be an enormous waste of an opportunity.
- I wanted to understand the country.
- I wanted to see the culture.
- I wanted to meet people.
- I wanted to eat local food.
- I wanted to experience real Sri Lanka.
So I cancelled the whole thing. I rebooked the flights, found a driver who would accompany us around the island for two weeks and started building our own itinerary. Armed with Booking.com, a rather optimistic attitude and very little actual knowledge, we set off.
Some parts were brilliantly successful.
Some parts taught me lessons.
Lots of lessons.
Is Sri Lanka Bigger Than People Think?
Yes.
And this was my first mistake. For some reason, I’d mentally filed Sri Lanka alongside Greek islands. I imagined something fairly compact that could easily be explored from one end to the other. Wrong….. Very wrong.
Sri Lanka is a substantial country and travelling from one region to another takes time. There is absolutely no chance you’re casually driving across the country in a couple of hours. The distances, mountain roads and changing terrain mean journeys often take significantly longer than expected. If you’re planning your own itinerary, allow far more travel time than you think you’ll need.
Future Zoe would like to have a word with past Zoe about this.
How Long Do You Need In Sri Lanka?
Looking back, I would do things differently. I packed too much into two weeks.
We travelled from:
- Negombo
- The Cultural Triangle
- Sigiriya
- Kandy
- Tea Country
- Horton Plains
- Yala
- Mirissa
- Galle
- Colombo
By the time we reached Colombo, we were exhausted. We had seen incredible things. Amazing things. Once-in-a-lifetime things. But neither of us had really stopped.
If I went back, I’d probably spend:
- 10 days exploring the island
- 4 days relaxing on the beach
Sri Lanka deserves some downtime. Trust me on this one.
When Is the Best Time to Visit Sri Lanka?
One thing I completely underestimated was the weather. On the coast, temperatures can be around 30°C.
A couple of hours later, in the Hill Country around Nuwara Eliya, temperatures can drop dramatically and feel closer to the mid-teens. I wasn’t remotely prepared for that. Tea Country is stunning, but it is significantly cooler than the coast.
Sri Lanka also has two monsoon seasons, which are important to understand before you book.
The Yala Monsoon
The southwest monsoon, known as the Yala Monsoon, generally runs from May to September and mainly affects the south coast, west coast and Hill Country.
The Maha Monsoon
The northeast monsoon, known as the Maha Monsoon, generally runs from October to January and mainly affects the north and east of the island.
The good news?
Because the monsoons affect different regions at different times, there is usually somewhere in Sri Lanka enjoying excellent weather whenever you visit.
Are Sri Lanka’s Temples Worth Visiting?
Absolutely. The temples were some of the most beautiful places we visited.
Just remember one important thing: You must cover your knees and shoulders when visiting temples.
Some of the most famous include:
- Dambulla Cave Temple
- Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic (Kandy)
- Ruwanwelisaya
- Sri Maha Bodhi
But honestly, I found beauty in many of the smaller temples too. The colours, architecture and atmosphere are extraordinary.
And then there are the monkeys.
Are There Really Monkeys Everywhere In Sri Lanka?
Yes. Actual real-life monkeys.
Everywhere.
At temples. In towns. Along roads. In trees. On rooftops.
Just generally living their best lives. I absolutely loved them.
Can You Really See Wild Elephants In Sri Lanka?
You can. And it was one of the things I loved most. One of my favourite things about travelling is seeing wildlife in its natural habitat. Seeing elephants wandering freely alongside roads was incredible.
Interestingly, many locals are far less excited about this than tourists are. From what we learned, some elephants can be aggressive and cause genuine problems for local communities.
Understandably, the locals view them rather differently to excited visitors clutching cameras.
Is Horton Plains Worth Visiting?
Without question. Horton Plains was one of the highlights of the entire trip.
The landscapes are breathtaking. The walking is fantastic. The scenery changes constantly.
We saw:
- Monkeys
- Squirrels
- Chipmunks
- Beautiful birdlife
There are also signs explaining what to do if you encounter a leopard. Sadly, we didn’t. But that didn’t stop me looking around every corner in hopeful anticipation.
Can You See Leopards In Yala National Park?
Well… The guides had told us they hadn’t seen any leopards for weeks. At this point, I should probably confess that I have a habit of making kissing noises when I want animals to appear. To this day, I have absolutely no evidence it helps, but I’m sticking with it.
Anyway, after being told there were no leopards around, we somehow ended up watching two leopards walking directly in front of our safari vehicle.
A mating pair. Just casually strolling past as if they’d been summoned.
It was one of the most extraordinary wildlife experiences of my life. Phenomenal.
Is Sri Lanka’s Tea Country Really As Beautiful As It Looks?
More beautiful. Much more beautiful. Tea Country genuinely took my breath away. The endless rolling hills covered in tea plantations don’t seem real.
The scenery feels almost dreamlike. And the cooler temperatures provide a welcome break after time spent on the coast.
If you’re visiting Sri Lanka and thinking about skipping Tea Country, don’t. You’ll regret it.
What Are The Most Beautiful Waterfalls In Sri Lanka?
The waterfalls completely blew me away. I have travelled extensively and had never seen anything quite like them. One of my favourite experiences involved hiring a local guide who took us to a waterfall near Nuwara Eliya. I believe it was Upper Diyaluma Falls.
After reaching the top, we sat and ate incredible local food wrapped in banana leaves while overlooking stunning scenery. It remains one of my favourite travel memories.
Is The Rainforest Worth Visiting?
The rainforest was another wonderful surprise. For some reason, I hadn’t fully appreciated what a rainforest actually does. It rains…. A lot.
One minute we were walking through beautiful scenery under blue skies. The next minute, it was absolutely pouring.
Picture the scene:
- Leech socks
- Shorts
- T-shirts
- Sunglasses
…and then, suddenly, our guides were handing out umbrellas. To add to the excitement, my friend slipped and lost her glasses in a waterfall. Thankfully our guide somehow managed to find them. I still have no idea how.
Is Sigiriya Lion Rock Worth Climbing?
Yes. The climb is challenging, but reaching the top is unforgettable. The views are spectacular. The history is fascinating. Just pay attention to the warning signs regarding wasps. If wasp activity becomes dangerous, the authorities close the site and nobody gets to climb.
There is also another nearby rock climb, Pidurangala Rock. Many visitors believe the views from Pidurangala are actually better because you get a direct view of Sigiriya itself, especially at sunset.
It’s a more challenging climb but well worth the effort.
Should You Take A Village Tour In Sri Lanka?
This was probably the one experience I personally wouldn’t repeat. This is entirely a personal view.
During a village tour near Sigiriya, part of the experience involved travelling on an ox cart. As someone who cares deeply about animal welfare, I found this upsetting. The nose rings and treatment of the animals made me uncomfortable and emotional.
The guides were kind when I explained my concerns, but if I’d known in advance, I wouldn’t have participated.
We also visited a traditional house and helped prepare food. For many people this would probably be a fantastic cultural experience. For me, as a vegetarian who strongly dislikes coconut, it was my own personal version of “challenging travel”.
Your mileage may vary.
Is Galle Worth Visiting?
Galle was one of my favourite places in Sri Lanka. The historic Dutch-built Galle Fort is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and offers some of the most beautiful coastal views on the island. Walking through the narrow streets feels like stepping back in time.
You’ll find:
- Historic architecture
- Boutique shops
- Cafés
- Coastal views
- Historic ramparts
- Stunning sunsets
The atmosphere is completely different from anywhere else we visited. It was the perfect place to slow down and wander.
What Is The Food Like In Sri Lanka?
The food was exceptional. Absolutely exceptional. The flavours in Sri Lankan curries are unlike anything else.
Rich. Fragrant. Complex. Comforting.
Every meal seemed to introduce us to something new. Even when I wasn’t entirely enthusiastic about every ingredient that appeared on my plate, I never stopped being impressed by the flavours.
Frequently Asked Questions About Sri Lanka
Is Sri Lanka Safe For Tourists?
During my trip, I found people to be warm, welcoming and incredibly helpful.
Do You Need A Driver In Sri Lanka?
For our itinerary, hiring a driver was one of the best decisions we made.
It allowed us to see far more of the country than we would have managed independently.
What Was Your Favourite Part Of Sri Lanka?
Impossible to choose. But if pushed, I’d say:
- Yala leopard sightings
- Horton Plains
- Tea Country
- Galle Fort
Would You Return To Sri Lanka?
Without hesitation.
Tomorrow if someone offered.
Final Thoughts
Sri Lanka surprised me in every possible way.
I expected beaches. I found mountains.
I expected heat. I found misty tea plantations.
I expected a nice holiday. I found one of my favourite countries.
If I went back, I’d travel a little slower and I’d definitely leave time for a few days on the beach at the end.
But would I go back? In a heartbeat.
Sri Lanka got under my skin in the very best way possible. ❤️